Last of the Autumn fruits? – Capsicum

The Plant:

There used to be an ad on Australian TV which was put out by the Kiwi fruit board (or whoever it is that promotes Kiwi Fruit) in which the tag line was: “more Vitamin C than an orange!” (the orange was weirdly pronounced as Oraarnj).  Well guess what….. the capsicum not only has more Vitamin C than an orange it also has more than a Kiwi Fruit.  Apparently raw red capsicum contains about twice the vitamin C as the same amount of orange.  Of course cooking it destroys quite a lot of it but it you munch it raw you can keep scurvy well and truly at bay.

The name capsicum at once refers to both the genus of flowering plants to which they and chillies both belong, and the vegetable (which is actually a fruit) that we cook and
eat.  Interestingly what Australian’s, New Zealanders and Indians call Capsicums is the only member of the capsicum family not to produce Capsaicin (the substance that makes chillies hot).  In the UK they are called peppers and in the US they are known as bell peppers, which is helpful to know if you are looking for ways to use this vegetable on the internet.

All capsicum fruits start out green then different varieties change to different colours upon ripening.   My personal preference is for red as I feel they are sweeter than most other colours but if you want a colourful salad there is no reason not to grow some of the other varieties which can produce yellow, orange, purple even chocolate coloured fruit.   There are also elongated varieties of capsicum if you want a variation on the more common bell
shape.

Once harvested peppers will continue to ripen for a couple of days if stored out of the fridge, so you can pick them at about 75% ripe and they will continue the process inside.
Good to know if you are concerned about pests attacking your crops.

How I grow them

I have struggled with my capsicums this year, or probably more accurately they have struggled with me.  I put it down the lack of warmth this summer (its amazing how many
things I do put down to that – if its hot next year and they still fail I’ll have to look for a new excuse).  Having said that I have had some beautiful ripe capsicums for the past month with a few more to come, so all is not lost.

This year I grew my capsicums in 40cm pots, I bought one plant as a large seedling and grew two from seed sown in August.  The one I bought as a large seedling produced one fruit which ripened in late December and then the plant basically stopped growing and flowering so I ripped it out.  I don’t think I will be buying seedlings again.  The other two have grown well but it took them so long to flower and set fruit that I am only now using home grown capsicums, and given that winter seems to be setting in I don’t hold out to
much hope for the plant setting any more fruit.  I do intend to try to get these plants through winter and see if they will fruit much earlier next year.  We shall see.

I always stake my capsicum plants as the weight of the fruit is often too much for the branches.  I use old pantyhose as plant ties (I have a large supply as I am particuarly good at laddering them).

For a family of four I think about 4-6 plants would probably be sufficient (unless you have a good preservation recipe), especially if you staggered their planting throughout the growing season.  In Melbourne this would mean staggering planting out of capsicum seedlings between late October and January.

 

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Posted in Autumn Harvesting, Chillies, Capsicum & Eggplant, Spring Planting | Tagged , | 4 Comments

Herbs – Growing Chervil

Sometimes I feel a bit sorry for Chervil; it kind of seems like the poor cousin of the more vibrant Parsley (to which it is related), the dowdier friend of dominant dill and the shy understudy of tremendous tarragon.   But then it does tend to compliment the same
sorts of food as parsley, dill and tarragon and to my palate it does kind of taste
like a mixture of all three.  All that aside, it does have its own personality and it is easily grown in shade which makes it simply fabulous for the suburban garden.

How I grow it:

I have a happy relationship with Chervil.  I do nothing and it rewards me by self seeding and providing a fairly constant crop.  Chervil seeds can be sown in Melbourne, or any temperate climate pretty much all year round (June – March provide the best times).  My chervil tends to go to seed in late spring – early summer with the resulting seeds germinating in early autumn.

I grow my Chervil in a fairly shady location, under a passionfruit vine and in amongst some strawberries (this is not a good location for strawberries but that is another story), but it does get some winter sun.   The hotter chervil gets the more likely it is to bolt so perhaps an even more shaded location would prolong leaf production further into summer.  My garden’s micro climate is warm enough for chervil to be perfectly happy through winter however if you do get heavy frosts you may find the leaves go a bit limp.

Everything I read on Chervil says you should sow seed in the place you wish the plant to grow, however I have had no problems at all sowing into seed trays and pricking out the seedlings and potting them up before transplant.  Having said that my self seeded plants do tend to be a bit happier than those I have planted out so perhaps the advice is reasonable.  Occasionally my Chervil plants get purple leaves which don’t seem to impair the plant in any way, and they taste the same as the green ones.  My understanding is that this is the plants response to the cold (a kind of reverse sunburn if you will).

I give the plants a drink of liquid fertliser every month or so.

 

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Growing Shallots, Onions and Spring Onions

This post contains:

  • The difference between Shallots, Onions & Spring Onions
  • Growing Onions
  • Growing Shallots
  • Growing Spring Onions
  • Making Crispy Fried Shallots

Overview:

This (May) is the perfect time of the year to be planting shallots and onions in Melbourne.   Spring Onions can be planted all year round.   Along with leeks, chives,  and garlic they are all members of the Allium Genus of plants, and frankly where would most cuisines be without them?   It is thought that onions were first cultivated in ancient Egypt where they were eaten, used in burials and also worshipped as symbolising eternal life (or so says Wikipedia).  In the middle ages they were held in such high esteem that people used them to pay their rent.  More recently they have been linked with a range of health benefits, although how well substantiated these are is debatable, what cannot be debated however is their role in pretty much all of the worlds great cuisines.

I have to admit I don’t even attempt anything like self sufficiency in onions; to do so would probably involve my devoting most of my garden to their production.  I use onions in one form or another most days.   Shallots I get much closer to self sufficiency with (but then I use considerably less of them).   I am self sufficient in spring onions.

This year I am growing a red onion variety called Red Shine and two types of shallots – a golden variety and a pink skinned variety but as I was given the bulbs I’m not too sure of their names.   I also grow a plethora of Spring Onions succession planted throughout the year.

What are the differences between Onions, Shallots and Spring Onions or Scallions?

From Left to Right: Shallots, Spring Onions (also known as Scallions) and a Brown Onion.  There are a number of varieties of shallot favoured in both Europe and Asia some are golden and others are pink skinned (with a purpleish flesh), some varieties are round as pictured here and there are more elongated forms.  Size can also vary a fair bit.  Spring Onions are immature onions (they will often grow a very small bulb if left in for long enough – although this does depend on the variety) which are eaten green as pictured.  Onions come in brown, white and red varieties and like shallots they come in both round and elongated forms.  Brown varieties tend to have the best keeping qualities.

How to Grow Onions:

Onions are generally grown from seed, although you can of course buy seedlings from nurseries.   Onion seed is generally sown in Melbourne in late autumn, early winter with a view to harvesting in late spring – late summer depending on the variety.

Onion varieties are categorised by day-length; ie the hours of daylight in a day needed for the onion to form bulbs.   As a result this is a crop you really need to plan for as they need: full sun (or as close to as you have), as well as, daylight for an appropriate number of hours for the variety you are planting, and they are generally going to be in the ground for a very long time.  This year I have sown seed of a variety called ‘Red Shine’- we will see how they perform.  If you buy seed or seedlings locally you should be sold an appropriate variety but if you are gardening in the sub-tropics/tropics (ie you have less daylight hours in spring/summer than we do in the south)  it is a good idea to double check the day length of the variety you are growing.

Onions like alkaline soil so I give my beds a bit of lime before sowing.  In general I don’t provide my onions with any additional fertiliser once the seed is sown; this is to ensure they form bulbs rather than lots of leaf growth.

How to grow Shallots:

Shallots are grown from bulbs which are planted so that the top of the bulb is barely covered with soil.  These bulbs multiply to create a clump of bulbs.  Shallots are harvested when their foliage turns yellow and begins to die.  Like Onions they like alkaline soil and I don’t fertilise my shallots once they are in the ground.   The bulbs can be planted either direct, or in pots and then grown on and planted out later.  If you have the space direct is the best option – less disruption for the plant – but if you are waiting for something else to finish starting them in pots works really well.  The above picture shows shallots which were started in pots and are now ready for planting.  I plan to plant about 12 bulbs which should produce enough shallots to eat for few weeks/months and to make a decent supply of crispy fried shallot from.

My mum made crispy fried shallots with last years crop.  Here they are pictured below, I love eating them just as they are (as do the kids) or use them on top of soups, stir fries, curries etc.  To make them you simply slowly fry sliced shallots in a neutral flavoured oil until they are golden brown and then drain on kitchen paper and leave to cool before storing them in an air tight jar.

How to grow Spring Onions:

Spring Onions are grown from seed and need as close as you have to full sun.  Spring Onions can happily be planted in Melbourne at any time of the year.  I try and sow a line of spring onions whenever I a sowing or planting out other vegetables.  To ensure a constant supply you need to sow seed every month or so.  Spring Onions are slow to develop in their intial stages and can be frustrating in this respect.  They do seem to speed up though when they get a bit bigger.  It usually takes a good couple of months from sowing to eating spring onions, however as this is quicker than most other food crops they can be very usefully sown between rows of other veg as they will be gone before the other crop reaches full size.   I sow the seeds for the other vegetable their normal recommended distance apart and squeeze a row of Spring Onions between them.   For instance a row of spring onions in between your rows of carrots or broccoli can work really well.  Leave the mulch off spring onions until they are a reasonable size as the mulch will often smother their delicate stems.  I also grow Spring Onions in pots as below.

 

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Growing Garlic

The plant:

A friend of mine who saw my blog for the first time recently suggested I should have included some more photos of my garlic planting.  Well I can do better than that – a whole post on the subject.  Actually I could probably write several such is my passion for the subject.  To start why grow your own garlic:

  1. It tastes better.
  2. You get to eat the shoots.
  3. You get to eat it young and green.
  4. Its cheaper – especially if the two cuisines you cook most frequently are Indian and Italian.
  5. No food miles – an awful lot of the garlic sold in Oz seems to come from an awfully long way away.
  6. You can ensure its organic
  7. The plaiting is kind of fun.

Sold?  I think so

How I grow it:

Garlic likes a well composted, fertile, limey soil.  What it doesn’t like is fresh manure but it will grow well in a bed you applied heaps of manure to the previous year.  You will also probably need to add lime.  (Make sure its garden lime though not the stuff brickies use.)

Garlic 2 weeks after sowing

 

Garlic needs as close to full sun as you can get in your garden and likes a monthly dose of liquid fertiliser.

I buy in seed garlic (cloves grown especially for planting) but you can plant cloves saved from last year’s crop.  I sow each clove 12cm apart with 12cm between rows, you could possibly plant as close as 10cm but any closer might be pushing it.  Cloves are sown tip end up about 3cm deep.  I wait for germination before mulching and water only if it gets really dry.  This year my garlic took less than a week to push through the soil and every one I sowed came up.  If only everything in life was so reliable……

Garlic 3 weeks after sowing

As well as sowing 98 cloves in my main bed I have also filled a few polystyrene boxes, the kind that fruit often comes in, with fertilised potting mix and sown 8 cloves in each box (the deeper boxes are the best).  I am trying to sow a years supply and I think I will need about 120 – 130 heads (about 2 per week).  Last season I grew 75 heads and I am half way through them and its only May (I harvested in January).

Just a thought: Although I have never actually tested the truth of this; I always choose the biggest and best cloves in the head for planting as my gut feeling is that they should produce the best heads.

This garlic, which incidently goes by the name of Italian – Common,  was sown on the 21st April and should be ready in December/January.  Heads of garlic are ready when the stems start to wither.  I store my garlic by plaiting it and hanging it in the laundry.  Garlic germinates when it gets cold so you want to store it in a dry location with a fairly even temperature.

I will include a post on how to plait garlic for storage when I do it after harvest.

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Pumpkin Everyday – Soup

Its cold today and I have a lot of pumpkin to get through.

Time for soup.

I love pumpkin soup, I love the velvety texture and its warming qualities.  It was the first thing I ever learnt to cook.  I may have used a different recipe back then but it was still good.  These days I particularly enjoy pumpkin soup with Indian spices.  The below recipe may seem a strange mixture including both milk and soy sauce with the spices but it really does work.  The soy brings out the sweetness of the pumpkin and the milk makes it rich and unctuous.  Try it, it’s the perfect way to make a dint in your pumpkin mountain.

Pumpkin Soup (Serves 2)

  • 1 onion
  • ½ stick celery
  • 1tblspn olive oil
  • 500grms pumpkin
  • ½ tspn cumin seeds
  • ½ tspn turmeric
  • ½ tspn soy sauce
  • A pinch of garam masala (good quality)
  • About ½ cup of milk (or stock or water depending on taste – Milk gives a rich soup which I particularly enjoy but stock or water can also be enjoyable)
  • Salt and Chilli powder mix (optional – I really enjoy this soup seasoned with a mixture of salt and chilli powder)

In a medium sized (or large if you are making soup for more than 2) saucepan  boil the pumpkin with the turmeric until cooked.  Drain and rinse out saucepan.    Meanwhile heat the oil in a fry pan.  Add the cumin seeds and fry for about a minute.  Add the onion and celery and cook until soft but not browned.  Add soy sauce and remove from heat.  Combine with the pumpkin, garam masala and milk and blend.  Heat and check for seasoning before serving.

Note: For a recipe for Garam Masala please see my post titled: Eggplant – The perfect pot plant? http://suburbantomato.com/2011/04/eggplant/

For another great pumpkin recipe click here: http://suburbantomato.com/2011/05/pumpkin-muffins/

 

 

 

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